Tag: puppy socializing

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When walking a puppy, which is better, a harness or a buckle collar?

I get asked this question a lot. My answer is that both are useful, it just depends on what kind of walk I am going on. Or better said, the objective of the walk– even if it’s just to burn off some puppy energy, can help determine whether a harness or buckle collar will be best. 

A word of caution: Whatever you do, DO NOT make the mistake of letting your puppy outside of an enclosed area “naked” (meaning without some sort of leash). I can promise you, there will be a time when they’re doing well with their training and you suddenly see them initiate a game of “keep away” (dogs find this game fun but humans do not!). If your pup isn’t on some sort of long line you will have no way to stop it and get your pup to come to you. When you allow the behavior you are training the behavior. You don’t want to inadvertently train your puppy to NOT come to you!

Let’s take this past Monday. Here in New Hampshire, it was going to be in the mid-90s. I mean, most of the country has been in an awful heat wave–high 90s into the triple digits–and New Hampshire has been no exception. I decided to walk early in the morning in some nearby woods to avoid the hottest part of the day.

This was a walk to release some energy and have fun, requiring a body harness attached to a 20-foot long-line. Every time I’m taking a puppy on a walk for exploration purposes, I’m going to choose a harness and long line so I get some recall practice in. 

The critical piece here is that I knew the objective of my walk ahead of time. The objective of the walk informs the decisions around a collar/leash or harness/long-line. So, my tip: 

BEFORE you choose, think about what you’re going to work on.

If you’re going to be teaching your puppy to be right next to you (eg.: walking into puppy class or the veterinarian’s office), then choose a buckle collar attached to a 6-foot leash. 

If you’re going to take your puppy out to potty in the yard, walk in the woods, or do anything that requires some sniffing and exploring, use a harness attached to a 20-foot long-line. 

Why? They each have particular advantages. Let’s look at the benefits of each depending on what you are teaching.

HARNESS/LONG-LINE USE:

I use this combination anytime we are outside (including potty time) when I do not require them to be right next to me as in formal leash walking. 

The high points of harness use:

  • A harness distributes the pressure on their chest versus their neck
  • Gives the puppy a safe way to explore
  • Mimics off-leash walking (my eventual goal)
  • Gives me the ability to teach recalls from a distance  

When (not if!) your puppy becomes interested in a smell or some other distraction and forgets they were just following you, you have a way to make them follow through by giving a tug on the long line.

Okay, now back to this past Monday…

Later that same day, Ripple had a puppy kindergarten class. That outing would require him to be close to me while walking into the building and for the class training. This time I used a buckle collar attached to a 6-foot leash.

BUCKLE COLLAR/6-FOOT LEASH USE: 

Walking alongside without pulling is a life skill every dog should know. With a young puppy, I want to establish that when wearing a buckle collar attached to a 6-foot leash, we are walking together–meaning the puppy is to keep close enough to me to keep the leash loose.

The high points of buckle collar use:

  • Better focus and attention from the puppy (because the collar is near the head)
  • Better control when going into buildings or in public
  • Differentiates from the harness: walking close to human vs distance from human

When you know what kind of walk you will be taking, you will always know which collar/leash to use.

Like wine and cheese, the right pairing makes all the difference.

  • Harness + long-line = exploring in the yard, field, or woods and potty time.
  • Buckle collar + 6-foot leash = walking close, as in walking on sidewalks or going into buildings.

To learn the skills you need to teach your own puppy how to walk nicely on a 6-foot leash, come when called and wait when they get too far ahead, join my free Facebook group Life with Rune.

Susan Lynch is a former competitive dog trainer who has been training, competing and volunteering with her Golden Retrievers since 1995. In 2020, she founded Life with Rune, a Facebook community that documents the socializing and training of her own puppy Rune. In 2021, she was awarded the Rachel Page Elliot Lifetime Achievement award by the Golden Retriever Club of America. Her memoir Life After Kevin: A Mother’s Search for Peace and the Golden Retrievers that Led the Way is available here . To learn more, visit: www.susan-lynch.com. 

For socializing ideas and training tips go to the Life with Rune Facebook group and click on the Guides tab at the top of the home page.

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Vacations and Puppies

Traditionally when we turn the page on the calendar to February thoughts of Valentines’s Day- candlelight dinners, chocolates, roses and wine come to mind. But for me, the month of February brings thoughts of fish tacos, margaritas and palm trees.

I live in New Hampshire so by the time February rolls around, I am done with the cold temps and snow, ready to head someplace warm. 

For ten days in February, I am on island time without a dog. 

When I have a puppy, I do what I can to ensure they will be able to handle being separated from me with minimal stress. How do I do that? 

  1. Find a trusted dog sitter
  2. Periodically have one night sleepovers at the dog sitter’s house

In general, socializing a puppy is about having good experiences so that they learn to view their world as safe. Socializing puppies dramatically reduces fears and builds resilience helping to ensure a happier life for your dog. 

I have been very fortunate over the years to have had excellent dog sitters. From my retired parents to friends who are dog savvy, all of them have taken my dogs into their homes while I was away. 

It made my vacations so much more relaxing because 

  1. I knew my dogs were not stressed
  2. I knew they were actually having fun (proof is in the video updates) 

My newest dog Rune was a puppy in 2020 during Covid-19 lockdowns. Although I was unable to go on vacation, I still made sure he stayed overnight at several different houses during his first year of puppyhood. Then, at a year old, I boarded him at a kennel facility for two days for the sole purpose of having the experience of playing, eating, sleeping and being groomed away from home.

A few one-night stays during that first year will help make the location more familiar and will make the eventual week-long stay less stressful (and hopefully fun) for them. 

Your dog will be like “I know this place, I’ve been here a few times before, it’s pretty cool!”

The bottom line is, having sleepovers during your puppy’s first year helps normalize the experience. When a puppy is comfortable in their environment they are happier. You will feel good knowing that you have done what you can to help emotionally prepare your puppy (and eventual adult dog) for time spent apart. 

Susan Lynch is a former competitive dog trainer who has been training, competing and volunteering with her Golden Retrievers since 1995. In 2020, she founded Life with Rune, a Facebook community that documents the socializing and training of her own puppy Rune. In 2021, she was awarded the Rachel Page Elliot Lifetime Achievement award by the Golden Retriever Club of America. Her memoir Life After Kevin: A Mother’s Search for Peace and the Golden Retrievers that Led the Way is available here . To learn more, visit: www.susan-lynch.com. 

For socializing ideas and training tips go to the Life with Rune Facebook group and click on the Guides tab at the top of the home page.

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Practical Tips for Having a Holly, Jolly, Accident-Free Holiday with Your Puppy

Rune – Christmas 2021

Last year’s Christmas was during Covid-19 and as a result, I decided to take the year off from decorating. 

We didn’t even put up the Christmas tree. 

Yep, 2020 was a Scrooge-kinda-Christmas, but this year we are back to hosting Christmas dinner with family, complete with a decorated tree. 

Rune is almost two and has never seen a tree with ornaments in the house so I know this will be met with curiosity.

Maybe your new puppy (or two-year-old) will be the same. 

Here are some things to take into consideration.

TIPS FOR THE TREE 

  • If your male puppy is intact, be aware that he could mark (pee) on the tree
  • If your puppy is teething, keep the lights and decorations out of reach
  • Make time to practice “leave it” around the tree
  • Don’t place gifts under the tree until Christmas morning
  • Avoid leaving your puppy unattended with the tree

CAUTION WITH HOLIDAY GREENERY & OTHER SUBSTANCES

Being prepared includes knowing about which Holiday Plants can cause varying degrees of health problems: Holly, Mistletoe, Poinsettias, Lilies, Daffodils, Amaryllis and Christmas Cactus. If your pet has ingested any of these call ASPCA Animal Poison Control phone number for instructions on what to do. A $75.00 consultation fee can apply but some of that fee may be covered if you are enrolled in ASPCA Pet Health Insurance.

When my dog Manny was a puppy, he found my son’s asthma inhaler on his bedside nightstand and punctured the container. It was animal poison control who saved the day when he was in the ER with a racing heart from inhaling a blast of Albuterol. Overnight guests should be reminded to keep any medications up high and off nightstands to avoid potential ingestion.

PEOPLE, FOOD, AND OTHER CONSIDERATIONS FOR GATHERINGS

The days leading up to the big day are busy but it is important to give some thought as to what your puppy/dog’s ability is around guests.  Have a plan as to how you are going to handle when guests arrive and when the meal is served. 

  • If you can’t do it, assign someone to be in charge of the dog when guests arrive. This can mean slipping a leash on him so the person in charge has some control over jumping up, etc. If you don’t have someone to handle the pup it might be best to crate him until someone is free to take the job.
  • Instruct your guest to not feed the pup under the table. 
  • Instruct guests to not leave their toothpicks, food plates and alcoholic beverages unattended on coffee tables. 
  • Put guest coats and purses up high and/or in a room with a closed door. Dogs can forage through pockets and purses grabbing pill bottles, etc.
  • Practice down stays and tethering the pup during mealtime in the weeks leading up to the big day. If he can’t help himself and starts visiting the guests around the table, put him in his crate. 

And just for good measure, here is an additional resource that you may find useful: 3 Ways to Survive the Holidays with Your Dog – wikiHow  

We all want to have a nice time with family and friends during the holidays. Include your pets in as much a part of the day as is safe for him and will keep you out of the ER. We want the holidays to be merry and bright for both you and your pets. 

Susan Lynch is a former competitive dog trainer who has been training, competing and volunteering with her Golden Retrievers since 1995. In 2020, she founded Life with Rune, a Facebook community that documents the socializing and training of her own puppy Rune. In 2021, she was awarded the Rachel Page Elliot Lifetime Achievement award by the Golden Retriever Club of America. Her memoir Life After Kevin: A Mother’s Search for Peace and the Golden Retrievers that Led the Way is available here . To learn more, visit: www.susan-lynch.com. 

For socializing ideas and training tips go to the Life with Rune Facebook group and click on the Guides tab at the top of the home page.

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Socializing a Puppy During a Pandemic – 18 Months Later

For the past 25 years, I’ve held the popular belief that puppies should physically meet LOTS of people during the first few months of life but my latest puppy Rune came home during the COVID-19 lockdowns so that wasn’t possible. Like a lot of my fellow puppy parents out there, I was concerned about how this would affect him long-term.  

The Golden Retriever breed is well known for its outgoing, friendly temperament and although I knew socializing a puppy is so much more than just meeting humans and canines, this was unchartered waters.

One aspect of training during the pandemic that I hadn’t considered was the benefit of my puppy not being allowed to greet every person he saw. 

To be clear, young puppies absolutely need to meet people so they aren’t fearful around people. Check out this short checklist on some ideas for socializing a puppy while socially distancing here. Rune had met people in my COVID safe circle, but not nearly the amount of people my other dogs had. Time would tell if just seeing people doing ordinary things would be beneficial toward socializing. 

Fast forward 18 months in this forced social experiment and what I’ve learned is that even though he didn’t physically meet (actually being petted by) lots of people during those first few months, it had zero effect on how comfortable he is around people. The flipside is that social distancing limited the number of opportunities to practice teaching an enthusiastic puppy how to properly greet people- but this is a topic for a different day!

Let’s dig a little deeper into why seeing people in action worked so well during the early socialization phase. 

Part of the reason is related to genetics and another part is related to the early socialization that took place while the puppy was still with his littermates. Answering these questions will provide some insight: 

  • Is the puppy’s breed outgoing in temperament? 
  • Were the puppy’s parents friendly?
  • Was the puppy socialized to different sights and sounds when he was with the breeder? 
  • Did he have ample human interaction when the puppy was with his littermates?

Another part is determined by the puppy as an individual and his response to people. 

  • Is the puppy consistently comfortable and happy to be around his human family? 
  • Does the puppy have the same friendly response to people outside the family? 
  • Does the puppy try to initiate greeting a new person on his own?  

During pre-pandemic times with my previous dogs, there were many times strangers would approach me so they could get in a puppy cuddle. Most people can’t resist a little, fluffy puppy toddling along but once that puppy reaches 40 pounds or more, the number of people interested decreases dramatically. During the first months when the puppy is small, the puppy is rewarded repeatedly with petting and attention, so by adolescence, they have learned they are rewarded for approaching strangers. 

By the time my previous puppies were around six months old I had to reteach them not to approach every person they saw. In their mind, greeting strangers had been a green light for the first six months of their life so naturally they were confused when the rules had suddenly changed.  

This story of Rune in the spring of 2020 illustrates the benefit of limited greetings as a young puppy while on a walk:

When Rune was about 4 months old we were walking on a trail in the woods. He was dragging his long line and was about 15 feet in front of me when he saw a man riding his bike toward us.

As soon as Rune saw the man on the bike he automatically sat and continued to watch the man approach. 

The man stopped and expressed his surprise at how well behaved he was for such a young puppy.

Rune had seen moving bikes previously, so I wasn’t surprised he wasn’t afraid but I was surprised that he didn’t go bounding over to the man, that is until I thought about it. The fact was, Rune had never been allowed to approach a stranger on the trail. What he had learned was to sit and stay while people passed us when walking in public. 

Raising a puppy during the pandemic highlighted an area where I could be more consistent. I never ended up needing to change the rules for Rune once he became an adolescent as I did with my other dogs. From the time he was 8 weeks old I was teaching him to sit and wait while people and dogs passed us. 

Hopefully, by the time I get another puppy, social distancing will be a thing of the past and we won’t be limited with our socializing opportunities. When that happens, I will aim to strike more of a balance when socializing with new people during those first six months. How my puppy handles the interactions will be more of a guide as to how many people he meets versus allowing an all-access pass with the public.

Susan Lynch is a former competitive dog trainer who has been training, competing and volunteering with her Golden Retrievers since 1995. In 2020, she founded Life with Rune, a Facebook community that documents the socializing and training of her own puppy Rune. In 2021, she was awarded the Rachel Page Elliot Lifetime Achievement award by the Golden Retriever Club of America. Her memoir Life After Kevin: A Mother’s Search for Peace and the Golden Retrievers that Led the Way is available here . To learn more, visit: www.susan-lynch.com. 

For socializing ideas and training tips go to the Life with Rune Facebook group and click on the Guides tab at the top of the home page.

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A Dog’s Emotional Health

I don’t like math. 

When I was six years old my first-grade teacher, Ms. T., stood by my desk and berated me in front of the whole class when I started counting on my fingers to get the answer to a math problem. She had expected me to do it in my head. 

As a result, I spent a lot of time in class being afraid of getting the answer wrong.

It wasn’t that I couldn’t learn math, or that doing it was going to physically hurt me, the problem was that early negative experience. 

My negative experience + at an impressionable age = negative emotions around math. 

And it stuck.

Dogs may never have fear around math, but they can be fearful around ordinary sights and sounds like a bag blowing across a parking lot or the beeping sound of a truck backing up. 

Most of us have seen a dog express emotions of love, joy, excitement, playfulness and contentment. On the flip side, they also can feel and express anxiety, anger, shyness and fear. 

In an excerpt from the book, Animals in Translation , animal behaviorist, Dr. Temple Grandin Ph. D, says “Fear is so bad for animals I think it’s worse than pain.”

Small amounts of short-term stress are an inevitable part of life, but when it’s prolonged or recurring, it becomes detrimental to the dog’s emotional health.

When a dog perceives he is being threatened, harmed, or attacked it sets off a physiological reaction called the “fight or flight” response. If the dog is unable to escape the situation he may switch to fight mode. The intensity of either response can vary depending on the circumstances and prior history. 

Fight responses:
– Barking
– Lunging
– Attacking/Biting

Flight responses:
– Cowering
– Running away
– Hiding
– Freezing

The good news is we have the ability to dramatically reduce what a dog perceives as scary. 

8 week old puppy + begin socializing = A happier puppy and adult dog!

Learn 3 things that will influence your puppy’s happiness here.

If my 1st-grade teacher had handled things differently, would I have grown up to have a career in numbers? Probably not… and luckily for me, dogs don’t need to learn math.

Susan Lynch is a former competitive dog trainer who has been training, competing and volunteering with her Golden Retrievers since 1995. In 2020, she founded Life with Rune, a Facebook community that documents the socializing and training of her own puppy Rune. In 2021, she was awarded the Rachel Page Elliot Lifetime Achievement award by the Golden Retriever Club of America. Her memoir Life After Kevin: A Mother’s Search for Peace and the Golden Retrievers that Led the Way is available here . To learn more, visit: www.susan-lynch.com. 

For socializing ideas and training tips go to the Life with Rune Facebook group and click on the Guides tab at the top of the home page.

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